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Not yet 7pm, and already the rhythm of the drums, the incessant noise, smoke billowing from the stalls,( where a cook stands in the centre, surrounded by the paying customers chomping on his chow, sat on the benches around him)... has increased tenfold since this afternoon.
Last night after writing my previous entry, I had a brief nap before braving the spectacle that is the Djemaa el Fna at dusk. Think Covent Garden in the 3rd world...
Musicians, dancers, crazy women screeching like banshees, and of course, my favourite: the snakecharmers...
yes, oh yes, I have finally ticked off another of my life ambitions: to see a snakecharmer. Didn't get too close - knowing my luck the snake would prefer me over being charmed by a gap-toothed, wrinkly arab.
In all honesty, I found the vibe after dark sinister, with wide-eyed loonies gawping at me somewhat reminiscent of the Strip in Las Vegas - the mania, the huge crowds, the chaos, all the sounds dischordantly screaming at a terrifying crescendo...
But then maybe I was just tired.
Tonight, I shall give it another shot.
Today, I dragged myself out the door around 10am, to wander through the souks, be harassed 'Ello, princess, how are you today?', random sleazy men whispering remarks like 'my preciiiiouuuuss'. Damn creepy. I don't understand the logic behind these comments - do they honestly think they'll get lucky? Anyway, having been to arab countries before, I am somewhat prepared, hardened, and downright... rude. Bonus!
Found the bus station, and before you could say 'yah Allah' like a true call-to-prayer wailer, I'd bought a ticket to Essouira (allegedly picturesque seaside town 2 and a half hours away) for tomorrow morning. On entry I was grabbed by some idiot trying to charm me into booking with another bus company 'Where you goin'? Ello, sweety, where you going? not today? tomorrow is good, yes. you want to go where?' to which I replied 'yeah I know tomorrow's good, and I don't need to following me, geddit?'. He got the hint eventually.
Meandering back through the souks, various cripples asking for money, one in particular reminded me of Eddie Murphy in Trading Places.
Right-o... other than that, not much. It's been sweltering, so I've found myself going indoors quite a bit. Found a beautiful lush garden earlier, where I sat awhile, listening to some youths play guitar and sing. Ate on the balcolny of a restaurant overlooking the Djemaa el Fna... like a true tourist, but hell, I don't get the chance to eat out much at home, so I'm sure going to when I get the chance. Ate couscous - so light and fluffy, you could barely feel it when you swallowed.
This is truly one chaotic, beautiful, crazy city. It is a riot to the senses - the smells, the sounds, the colours... I have taken lots of snaps to try and get the feel of the place, so I hope they turn out to be sufficient. I think I would need a lot longer to truly get to know Marrakech, and a lot more patience. As it is, I feel drawn to some traquility for a few days. I'm sure I will spend my last couple of nights back here, however. Seriously, I'm sure a lot of the people genuinely are friendly, but I'm a warped westerner... or something. Actually, I find the women rather sweet. I'm just fed up of being fair game for ripping off because quite obviously I'm loaded.
Will no doubt think of more to write when I reach Essouira...
boiy for now
x
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